Click on photos for larger image
REPAIRING RUSTING BED AND SPIDER FRAME
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While the truck was down for maintenance I decided the pull the tipper bed and spider sub frame to repair rust damage from years on the farm in Germany. The first photo is "before" and the next two are after I left the frame at a local sand blaster for a week. I went to check on their progress and not only did they not do the work but they managed to run over my front panel with a forklift! And this guy used to import 404's and Pinz's! No names but the shop is in Baldwin Park, CA.
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After picking up my parts and taking them to a "professional" stripper, I had to repair the bent header before cutting out and replacing one of the support channels with 14ga sheet steel. I have tracked down an additional 10lbs of the powder paint and the bed will be undercoated with a high zinc primer and the Ag green top coat.
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All three mounts were rusted solid and look like they have been for years. After melting the nylon bushings out I cut the bottom half of the front mount sleeves off with a grinder and had to scarf the ends off of the rear pivot pin. After blasting, the rear "H" beam was VERY thin and was being split apart by up to 1/4" of solid rust. The rust was beaten to powder and the beam was clamped back together and seal welded top and bottom. A 3/16" reinforcement plate was then welded inside the beam around the pivot boss.
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With the front mounts rewelded, the replacement of the rusted out material above the front pins and fabrication of a new rear pin, the spider was powder coated and reinstalled with new nylon sleeves. This should improve articulation over the siezed pivots.
WHEEL CYLINDERS
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A few years ago I had the front wheel cylinders sleeved and since now the rears were leaking it was time to sleeve them. For $50 each, Karp's Power Brake Service in Upland, CA will install a 304 stainless sleeve and provide rubber parts. The red stuff is brake assembly lube.
REAR DIFF LOCKS
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The ability to lock the differentials while in two wheel drive can be very handy when rock crawling and negotiating tight canyons. Rather that an elaborate system of 3-way solenoid valves for front and rear, I opted for a simple mower cable and two fabbed brackets. The photos show lockers off, locked 2WD and locked 4WD. It should work but I haven't tried it at this point.
CRAWLER GEARS
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My parts truck came with the optional 2-speed crawler set. Other that a few minor chiped gear teeth the unit cleaned up pretty well. The shift mechanism is rather odd compared the the rotating handle on the 404's. The mounting bracket on the shift tube looks to be out of rotation with the trans top plate but I know in was in the truck at one point so we will soon see if it fits.